Sportmax AW16 – MFW

Max Mara’s little sister Sportmax mixes the exotic allure of Morocco and the austerity of the catholic spirit of the Northern Renaissance in a collection that appears both modern and minimalistic.


Roomy sweaters saturated in decorative, wavy embroidery, patchwork leather coats, sleeve decorations that mimicked Persian rug patterns, long slouchy jumpers, dresses and macramé white knits were all reminiscent of a day spent wandering though the streets of Fez or a night in the fabled, shabby Tangier.


In contrast with the Moroccan hues and patterns, there were slim waisted, thigh-fitting black and dark tan jackets with vertical zips, calf-length skirts and block-heeled shoes with a Céline-esque twist, which drew inspiration from Flemish Renaissance painting and its devoted and composed subjects.


“Where does purity end and decoration begin?” asked Sportmax after the show with a post on their Instagram account. This collection answers – combining Puritan rigour with a fascination for Maghreb, displayed in a setting decorated with bold dark red, black and white towers made of industrial foam inspired by architectural elements that can be found in medieval paintings, Giotto’s in particular. The set-up was designed by Formafantasma, an Italian creative duo based in Amsterdam who partnered up with the Italian brand for the Spring/Summer 16 show as well.

Both a look to the past and the present, this collection gives a fresh touch to the design-led, urban style of the Emilian label.


Words by Giorgia Baschirotto
Images © PYLOT Team using Impossible instant film.