“Instead of forever hovering above I’d like to feel a weight grow in me to end the infinity and to tie me to earth. I’d like, at each step, each gust of wind, to be able to say ‘Now. Now and now’ and no longer ‘forever’ and ‘for eternity,” read Ports 1961 Autumn/Winter 16 show invitation, a quote from Wim Wenders masterpiece Wings of Desire.
Port’s sleek, modern girls were urban angels in shimmering silver dresses and tops, sheer gowns, head-to-toe white looks, elegant tuxedo jackets and minimal, deconstructed pieces.
Just like in the film, which shifts from monochrome to colour as soon as the angels discover the beauty of life, the collection follows a progression which presents black and white pieces followed by solid-coloured elements with a 90s vibe. An aesthetic found in the grungy, fluffy pink dress paired with chandelier earrings and white sneakers, a furry oversized brown coat and a vibrant pink power suit that perfectly matched with the opalescent and bright blue eyeshadow.
Plain white trainers were alternated with black, grey or olive boots with built-in socks, a reinterpretation of the footwear that creative director Natasa Cagalj used for her Central Saint Martins graduate show. “For this collection I went back to my professional roots and brought many elements of my past designs into this line-up,” she said speaking about her catwalk debut in Milan. A fashion-forward collection that perfectly combined construction, deconstruction and experimentation.
Words by Giorgia Baschirotto
Images © PYLOT Team using Impossible instant film.