Sculpturally informed and elegantly realised, Koma’s aesthetic is one of minimal, artistic appreciation. Architectural design is translated into the cut of cloth, linear landscapes realised in layers and folds. Usually in response to artist’s work, he explores symmetry and shape through fluid, figure hugging designs: a tribute to the female silhouette cast in fabric form.
For Autumn/Winter 2016, it was the brutalist, industrial work of Frank Cota that informed the collection: a constructed, tailored offering of metallic embellishments and cut-away contours, cashmere felt and Napa leather.
The interplay between rounded and rectangular shapes formed layered, abstract artwork in city greys and burnished hues. Rounded shoulders and cuff-like sleeves on embellished sheers took on a regal, other-worldly persona. And throughout, there was a 60s undertone; flared white jumpsuits, mini skirts and cut-away shapes were adorned in metal, shoulders bared, and eyes lined in dark kohl.
Sharp, sleek and structured; Koma’s collections make mechanical influences wearable, and find a soft beauty in the harshest of places.
Words by Anna Sanders