J. JS LEE AW16 – LFW

The severe, Soap Opera aesthetic that defined 80s power dressing was softened for Autumn/Winter 2016; Jackie Lee’s woman was a modern interpretation of her fashion forebears – the older sister, insouciance and quietly defiant. 

The tenets of a liberating satirical past were still there, just refined and refreshingly wearable. Bold colour-blocking arrived in a dressed-down palette of monochrome and primary hues, fabrics referenced office carpets and tweed sofas in a way that was anything but nostalgic; calling cards that once lent themselves to vulgarity now made desirable. Trouser suits were worn oversized, with matching skirts and dramatic lengths that rippled down the runway with a shiver of this electrifying era. Shoulder pads were still there, sloping softly into a familiar, yet more elegant shape; a minimal re-visiting of a favourite silhouette.
Against this backdrop of modern work-wear was a soft, feminine trim: a feathered, delicate pleat like the edge of a petal. Ruffled necklines and cinched-in waists created fluid folds in fabric, a demure romance that tempered strict, masculine tailoring.
80s dress codes, far from playfully referenced as fashion usually does, were re-written in the effortless, elegant way that only Jackie Lee could.

Text by Anna Sanders
Images © Max Barnett using Impossible instant film.